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Chittorgarh Fort
The Colossal Walls
Standing on a rocky plateau on a 500 feet high hill, the 700 acre fort went
through three sieges, and each time Chittor turned out the loser. But that did
not mean that the fort was inferior to any other in Rajasthan. It was just that
that the Rajputs had a habit of riding out to meet the enemy outside the safety
of their walls instead of allowing the enemy to launch the first assault. The
first time the fort was stormed in 1303AD, it was purely for matters of the
heart. Alauddin Khilji fell in love with Rani Padmini the moment he heard of her
and decided to take Chittor and subsequently Padmini. He did get Chittor but
Padmini was nothing more than ashes in a huge jauhar (mass suicide by fire)
which left 30,000 women burnt alive by choice.
The second siege came 232 years later in 1535 from Muhammad Shah of Gujarat, and
this time it was outright war. Chittor fell again, and 13,000 women and children
died in a different kind of jauhar. The fortress was on the brink of being
seized by Bahadur Shah and there was no time to arrange for a bonfire. Gunpowder
was brought out from the magazines and laid out in excavations in the ground. A
tremendous blast took the lives of women and children this time.
The final assault was by Akbar in 1567, and it was fatal for Chittor. The seven
gates of Chittor were opened and 8,000 Rajputs rode out in their saffron war
robes once again to die at Mughal swords. Tradition repeated itself within the
walls of Chittor, and women and children sallied forth into flames. When Akbar
entered the fort, it is said that there was not a living soul left inside. After
this final sack the backbone of Chittor was broken, and its ruler Rana Udai
Singh fled to lay the foundations of Udaipur. Chittor never recovered and the
fort was taken over by nature.
Fort Palaces
Rana Kumbha was the one who officially built Chittor, and his palace is the
oldest monument within the fort walls. The palace was built from 1433-68 in
plastered stone, and the entrance is through Suraj Pol which directly leads into
a courtyard. On the right of Suraj Pol is the Darikhana or Sabha (council
chamber) behind which lies a Ganesha temple and the zenana (living quarters for
women). A massive water reservoir is located towards the left of Suraj Pol.
Ruined houses towards the south of the palace may have been used by lesser
nobles, or were probably used by palace attendants. Below the central courtyard
is a subterranean chamber where Rani Padmini committed jauhar with the rest of
the women of Chittor when Alauddin Khilji besieged the fort. But perhaps the
most remarkable feature of the palace is its splendid series of canopied
balconies. The complex also houses stables for elephant and horses, but is now
in ruins.
Other Attractions
Fateh Prakash
Near Kumbha's palace is Fateh Prakash, the most modern building in Chittor.
Built in the early 20th century, the palace was the home for Maharana Fateh
Singh, Chittor's ruler who died in 1930. A part of the building has now been
converted into a museum but the rest of it is closed to visitors.
Kunwar Pade ka Mahal
was the palace of the prince of Chittor, and was built in 1450. Interestingly,
this palace incorporates for the first time in Rajput architecture the use of
ogee arches. These S-shaped arches later became an essential part of Rajput
architecture and were widely used in palaces, step wells and temples. In the
prince's palace can be seen some of the beautiful blue tiles that went into
decorating most of the palaces here. Prolific use of the ogee arch can also be
seen in Rana Ratan Singh's palace built from 1527-32. Ratan Singh was Padmini's
husband, and his palace is styled on Rana Kumbha's royal residence.
Rani Padmini's Palace
is a compact three storeyed white building, but what is seen today is a 19th
century reconstruction of the original. The palace is surrounded by water, and
the inevitable chhatris (pavilions) crown its roofs. This was perhaps the
forerunner of the concept of jagmahals (palaces surrounded by water), and it was
from here that Akbar carried off huge bronze gates and installed them in Agra.
Close by is Bhimlat kund, an artificial tank dedicated to the strongest of the
Pandava brother, Bhima (see Mahabharata).
Palaces of Jaimal and Patta
The palaces of Jaimal and Patta were the last two buildings to be built in
Chittor fort, and calling them palaces is really misleading. Compared to other
palaces in Rajasthan, they are small and of not much architectural significance.
Both these havelis (houses) are built very frugally, taking into consideration
that they were constructed more as simple residences than splendid palaces. Both
lie in ruins now, and their facades are minimal and hardly bear any resemblance
to the palaces of Rana Kumbha or Padmini.
Towards the south of these two havelies is the three-storeyed tower called
Chonda house built in early 15th century, and now in ruins. Chonda was the
founder of the Chondawat clan and gave up his throne on the insistence of his
father.
Main Gate Ways To Fort
A limestone bridge supported by ten arches across the Gambheri river leads into
the fort. Nine of these arches are pointed, and by some mishap one was built as
a curve. The road to Chittor is arduous and a kilometer long, with seven
imposing gateways forming defensive entrances. Padal Pol the first gate, is
where Bagh Singh was cut down in the second siege by Bahadur Shah in 1535.
Here it must be remembered that gateways to a fort in Rajasthan were no
diminutive ones - they were massive stone structures with reinforced doors to
ward off elephants and even cannon shots. The gates of Chittor are of special
architectural interest, for it was here that for the first time that defense
surpassed décor. The arches are pointed, and the top of the gates are notched
parapets from where archers could shoot at their tormentors.
None other than Emperor Akbar dedicates two of the seven gates to Chittor's
brave defenders. Bhairon Pol was where Jaimal fell by the Emperor's bullet, and
Patta died at Ram Pol, the fort's main gate which was built in 1459. It is
crowned by two little chhatris (pavilions), and the roof is supported by a
corbeled arch. Each side of the gate consists of a small hall. On returning to
Agra Akbar ordered the construction of statues of the valiant warriors to
commemorate their deaths. Cenotaphs for both Jaimal and Patta were also built by
Rajputs at each gate. A statue of a Rajput warrior on horseback, lance in hand,
is Jaimal's cenotaph, while another colonnaded cenotaph lies nearby, dedicated
to Raghudeva of Mewar.
The eastern wall is entered through Suraj Pol (Sun Gate). Hanuman Pol lies
before Ganesh Pol, and then come two gates joined together in a peculiar manner.
The upper arch of the Jorla (Joined Gate) is connected to the base of Lakshman
Pol, a feature never seen anywhere else in India.
Fort Temples
In the western side of the fort is an ancient Tulja Bhawani temple in honour of
goddess Tulja, held sacred by the scribes of Chittor. Adjacent to this temple is
an open courtyard, the tope khana (cannon foundry) of yester years where a few
old cannons can still be seen.
Naulakha Bhandar- Treasure Store
The Naulakha bhandar (nine lakh treasury) built by Rana Kumbha is a small
citadel in itself, and it was here that all the wealth of Chittor was hoarded.
The bastion once had lofty walls and towers to guard it, but now lies in ruins.
The Naulakha bhandar is also said to have been the residence of Banbir, the
usurper.
Shringar Chaori Jain Temple
In northeastern corner there is a small domed temple called the Shringar Chaori
with detailed carvings of gods and goddesses on the outside. This richly
sculpted Jain temple was built into the fort wall in 1448 in honour of
Shantinath, a Jain fordmaker.
The palace of the Ranas, built by Rana Raimal, is a plain edifice with notched
battlements, following the style of original Rajput architecture devoid of any
Mughal influence. This palace was the home for the very first rulers of Chittor,
or that of the Moris from whom Chittor was seized.
Within the courtyard surrounding the palace is another temple, this one for
Devji. Rana Sanga had a special affinity for Devji, and on each of his forays
outside Chittor to engage the enemy he would first visit the temple. On a
victorious return, Sanga would once again pay homage to the deity (see Chittor
introduction).
Mira Bai Temple
Jain TempleTwo massive temples also lie within the fort. One was built by Rana
Kumbha and the other by Mira Bai, the saint-poetess and Krishna's devotee. The
masonry for these temples was brought from the ruins of ancient shrines near
Chittor. Rana Kumbha's Vrij temple (1450AD) is dedicated to Varah, the god with
the body of a man and the head of a boar. Near these temples are two kunds or
reservoirs, each measuring 125 feet in length, 50 feet across and 50 feet deep.
However, they were not meant to store water and were constructed for the wedding
of a Chittor princess to a prince of Gagron. They were filled with oil and ghee
(clarified butter) which was served out to attendants and guests.
Near Mirabai's temple is the cenotaph of Mirabai's guru Shri Rai Das. Inside the
cenotaph is a statue depicting five human bodies fused together with one head,
signifying that there are no caste differences and even outcasts can reach out
to god.
Kallika Mata temple
Bappa Rawal built the Kallika Mata temple sometime during the 8th century for
Surya, the Sun god. Alauddin Khilji destroyed it in the first sack of Chittor,
but Rana Hammir rebuilt it as a Kali temple in the 14th century. The temple
consists of five chambers, all devoid of their original roofs. The walls of this
temple are plain but the cornices are decorated with lotus symbols. The inner
sanctum's walls depict the Sun god Surya in nichés surrounded by consorts and
angels. The moon god Chandra is also shown in sculptures in the walls which rise
up into a flat ceiling supported by quadrangular pillars, also intricately
carved and bracketed at the top. The doorframe of the inner sanctum has four
ornamental bands with Surya forming the central theme of its carvings. The
entire frame is flanked by an elaborate panel in which are carved figures of
deities around a main figure of the sun god. The temple still retains the
flavour of the Gupta style of architecture, and an inscription within the
edifice informs us that it was built by king Manabhanga.
Kumbhashyama temple
The Kumbhashyama temple is similar to the Kallika temple but in is honour of the
god Krishna. Simplicity is the main theme, but nichés in the walls are filled
with diamonds and carry images of gods and goddesses as well as the eight
regents of Chittor. The upper walls are decorated with a frieze of entwined
loops. A major part of the temple seems to have been restored, but the inner
chamber still retains its originality.
The 16th century Adbhutnath temple demonstrates a style which emerged in the
10th century. Here, images of gods tend to be differently portrayed than in
other temples. Heads are almost circular and the statues' limbs form a tubular
shape, making the images look like crude toys. The main image of Mahesha or Lord
Shiva is made of wood and is an unrefined depiction of the Destroyer god. His
face is flat and two more adjoining faces are turned forward in an obvious
display of the lack of dimension.
Brahma Temple
Rana Kumbha's Brahma temple is not really that of the Creator of the Universe,
and is in honour of Kumbha's father, Mukul. Apparently Brahma was never
worshipped here, and the temple was only named after him since a bust of Mukul
stands in the centre of the solitary chamber. Adjoining this temple is Charbagh,
a garden of cenotaphs where the ashes of each one of Chittor's rulers - from
Bappa Rawal to Udai Singh II, the founder of Udaipur - are kept.
Mahasati
The Ranas of Chittor were cremated in the Mahasati, a small terrace surrounded
by stones marking satis (widows burnt with the bodies of their husbands).
Gaumukh
Beyond the Charbagh is Gaumukh, a perennial fountain formed in the mouth of a
'cow'. The 'cow' is actually a cleft in a rock face through which water flows
out into a reservoir. Near the Gaumukh is the Rani Bindar tunnel which leads
into the subterranean chamber where Rani Padmini committed jauhar during
Alauddin Khilji's siege of Chittor.
Within the same complex is the Sammidheshwara temple in which light enters from
four different directions. The temple walls are short and take the form of blind
balustrades. Small pillars support the roof on the outside while columns support
the dome of the inner chamber. This central chamber is largely open on all sides
and its columns meet in arches in the upper reaches.
Towers of Glory
Towers of GloryThe most imposing monuments in Chittor are the dual towers that
stand as a grim reminder of the jaded grandeur of Chittor. Vijaystambha or
Victory Tower was erected by Rana Kumbha from 1457-58 after he defeated the
combined armies of Malwa and Gujarat. The tower is 122 feet high and its summit
spans an area of more than 17 feet. Nine storeys ascend into the sky from the 35
feet broad base on a 42 feet broad platform. Each of the nine storeys have
doorways leading into colonnaded balconies. Designed by an architect called
Jaita in the Jain revivalist style, the tower is built of quartz and compact
limestone abundantly found in Chittor. The colonnaded top storey has a statue of
a kanya (young girl) surrounded by gopis (milkmaids) in dancing postures playing
various musical instruments. Black marble tablets in this floor contain shlokas
(verses) tracing the genealogy of Chittor rulers. However, most of the slabs
have been defaced and only one is still in its original condition. The fifth
floor contains reliefs of the builders of the tower, and a simple staircase
which leads right up to the top connects all the storeys.
Kirtistambha
The secondary tower in Chittor is the huge Kirtistambha (Tower of Fame)
originally dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain saint. 75 feet high and 39 feet
wide at the base, the Kirtistambha is also richly decorated with Jain motifs.
Similar to Vijaystambha, this tower is also built of quartz, is seven storeys
high with a chunkier façade. A number of Jain inscriptions can be found within
and outside the tower, dating it to 896AD.
Mohair Margi
Mohair Margi is a little hill raised under orders from Akbar during his siege of
Chittor in 1567. The Mughal army was engaged to raise a hill as high as the fort
walls so that they could fire cannons into Chittor. For this purpose earth was
excavated and dumped near the walls. Legend has it that Akbar paid one gold
mohur (coin) for each basket of mud since the task meant certain death.
Eventually the mound did reach as high as the fort walls and Akbar was able to
seize Chittor.